First person to climb all 14 peaks, Reinhold Messner


Reinhold Messner, full name Reinhold Andreas Messner is an Italian mountaineer and explorer born in September 17, 1944. He renowned as the world’s greatest mountaineers for all time. Messner was popular for his pioneering and difficult ascents of the world’s highest peaks. Messner has successfully climbed World’s tallest mountain Everest without supplementary oxygen with his Austrian climbing partners Peter Habeler. It was first ever event in Everest climbing to ascent without oxygen.

After 2 years of this success, Messner conquered Everest with solo expedition and also without oxygen. And his well-known and biggest record in the mountaineering sector was 14-peak expedition. He became the first person to ascent all 14-peak mountains that exceed an elevation of 26,250 feet (8,000 m). 

Childhool of Reinhold Messner

Reinhold Messner was raised in German speaking region of northern Italy. His father introduced and inspires him to mountaineering. And at the age of 13, he started climbing. He climbed numerous difficult climbs at his young age. During the 1960s at the age of 16 Messner became one of the earliest and strongest climbers and renown as “Alpine” style of mountaineering. The Alpine style climbing is that, which stand for the use of minimal amount of lightweight equipment and little or no support like technical, guide or assistant.

Mountain Carrier

Reinhold Messner with Nirmal Purja
Reinhold Messner with Nirmal Purja

In 1970, he made first trip to Himalayas. During his first trip to Himalayas he made first successful ascent to Nanga Parbat in Pakistan with his brother Gunther. He ascent Nanga Parbat via Rupal (South Face), his brother was died during descent. And also Reinhold barely survived the ordeal and losing his several toes to frostbite. The first expedition without suplimentry oxygen was Gasherbrum I (8068m) in 1975 with Habeler. And in the year on 8 May 1978, Messner and Habeler climbed Everest without oxygen. His solo ascent of Everest in 1980 was also remarkable. 

Messner continued his mountaineering by tackling lofty peaks. Usually he tried virgin routes. Again in 1978 he had climbed Naga Parvat in Pakistan, reaching the summit alone by new route. And in the year 1979 he had led a team of Mount K2 (8611m). Mount K2 is considered as world’s hardest and challenging mountain in the world above 8000m. He again tried to ascent via virgin route (southwest face) of Cho Oyu (8201m) in 1983. In the following year, he climbed Gasherburm I and Gasherburm II. By the year 1986 he had climbed all 14 highest peak of the world, many of them were twice. 

Also Read: – Mountain Climbing Gear List For Everest Climbing

Journey of South Pole

His biggest achievement was Antarctica expedition via the South Pole by foot, without assistant of animals or machines. In 1989-90 Messner and German Arved Fuchs became the first to do this. They travelled around 2800 km, which was completed in 92 days. In 2004, another notable adventure trip of Messner was 1250-mile (almost 2000km) solo trek across the Gobi Desert in Mangolia. 

In the end, Messner served in the European Parliament (1999 to 2004). He specially focused environmental issues. Messner has written some of the popular books in German and several of which were translated into English. 

Reinhold Messner

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